Mangoes, mangosteens,
melons, star fruit, star fish, abalone, mussels, oysters, whelks, cockles and
lobster - Xiamen is a subtropical island in the South China Sea and its foods
reflect all the bounty and diversity of the sea and the warm, languid
climate.
In order to
retain the natural flavour of foods the cuisine of Fujian Province places
emphasis on cooking methods like braising and steaming. Soups, soupy stews and
soupy noodles feature heavily and are considered an ideal way to highlight the
inherent flavour of ingredients. In Xiamen, the
local saying 不汤不行 bù tāng bù xíng means "It is unacceptable for a meal not to have soup" but
translates literally as "No soup, no go."
1. Seafood Satay Noodle Soup 沙茶面 Shacha Mian
1. Seafood Satay Noodle Soup 沙茶面 Shacha Mian
Arguably Xiamen's
most famous dish, sha cha main is a base of rich, creamy, nutty curry
satay soup with the addition of wheat noodles and seafood and meats of the
diner's choice.
Sha cha mian
restaurants display trays of squid, shrimp, oysters, cockles, and baby octopus
alongside cooked pork intestines and fat pork which you add as you wish, the
final price of your soup reflecting the number of ingredients you add. The
result is a heady and fragrant meal with whispers of laksa, which it most
closely resembles.
2. Gold Wraps Silver 金包银 Jin
Bao Yin
These street snacks
have a wonderful name, a reference to the treasure within and without. They are
common on Gulang Yu island, where a steamer full of the
plump little buns can be found on every corner.
The outer wrapper is
made from sticky rice and arrowroot flour, soft, warm and pleasantly chewy. The
inside is a rich, dark mixture of finely shredded mushrooms, bamboo shoots and
pickles, sometimes with a little meat added.
3. Tu Sun Dong 土笋冻 Sea Worm
Jelly
How can I describe
this in a way that sounds anything other than off-putting?
A popular cold dish
with pride of place at every banquet dinner in Xiamen, tu sun dong is
made using a short marine mud worm - the 'bamboo shoot of the earth' (tu sun
土笋 , actually the sipunculid worm, 星虫). After being washed clean of any
residual mud the worms are set in a light vinegar aspic.
Yet for the
adventurous eater this little dish is a masterpiece of textures and distinctive
and novel flavours - the cold vinegar aspic is cool and smooth on the tongue,
and as you bite in there is a rush of briny saltiness then the pleasant
chewiness of the worms themselves. The accompanying sauces - horseradish, satay,
and chill, with cold shreds of lightly pickled radish, add more layers of
flavour as you eat.
4. Popiah 薄饼 Baobing
These Fujian-style fresh spring rolls have different filling variations according to where they originate. In Xiamen they are made with a very fine wheat pancake spread with a sweet red sauce and fine sprinkles of dried seaweed, then filled with a cooked mixture of carrot, radish, pork and sometimes seafood.
5. Oyster Omelette 蚝仔煎 Haozi Jian
Green shallots are
mixed with tiny brown haozi (oysters) and fried until they brown before
being surrounded by a halo of golden omelette. The tangy red sauce is
optional.
I must admit I ate
this famed Xiamen street food with some trepidation because it broke one of my
tried and tested Street Food Survival Rules - to never eat seafood
on the street, especially when the weather is warm. But hey, I figured I was
working in a hospital all week anyway, so if I ran into trouble help wasn't far
away.
As it turns out, the
oyster omelette did me no harm. Was it fabulous enough I would risk it a second
time? Probably not.
6. Zongzi 粽子
No ordinary
zongzi, Xiamen's sticky rice wrapped in bamboo leaf rises up from the
plate like the snout of a sea beast, its severed head resting in a puddle of
what are by now a familiar trio of chili sauce, horseradish and satay
sauce.
7. Peanut Soup 花生汤 Huasheng
Tang
Peanuts are commonly used in Xiamen's cuisine, and locals love to eat bowls of
warm, sweet peanut soup. The peanuts are soaked and boiled before being cooked
into a thick sweetened soup. Rather bland on its own, the soup is often served
with crunchy youtiao fried bread sticks, fried dumplings or steamed pork
buns.8. Zhan Sanfeng's Milk Tea 张三疯奶茶
The island of
Gulangyu is famous for its beautiful old buildings, its pianos, and apparently
also a portly cat called Zhang SanFeng. He has his own milk tea shop there, and
his story is explained on the wall outside (transposed verbatim):
"Zhang SanFeng is a
cat lives on Gulang Yu, Xiamen. He lives leisurely andcarefree. He acted crazily
in his chilhood while he is now thinking deeper. He has many romantic stories.
Sometimes he elopes with the dog of next door in Gulangyu a few days. If there
is no interval of sea around this island, they've already travelled around the
world."
9. Mango Ice
The warm, humid
sub-tropical climate of Xiamen means icy desserts are hugely popular in flavours
of green tea, red bean and purple taro. Xiamen's mangoes, as big as footballs,
are available almost all year round and are one of the most popular flavours for
juices and ices.
This delectable
dessert is a mango parfait with layers of diced mango in syrup, mango jelly,
shaved frozen mango (like a sorbet, made on the spot from chunks of frozen mango
flesh) served up topped with sweet biscuity crumbs.
10. Fresh Seafood 海鲜
Haixian
Fresh seafood is
Xiamen's trademark, and it's difficult to go twenty four hours without having a
shrimp, scallop, or piece if fish pop up in your meal.
Small seafood
restaurants and stalls abound, with some seafood available live in tanks (and
therefore fresh), and some on ice (and alarmingly, some not on ice). You choose
your seafood - shrimp, langoustine, lobster, ten kinds of crab, fish, shellfish
- pay by weight, then have it cooked to order.
The seafood is
plentiful and the choice on offer utterly staggering. If
you visit Xiamen in the summer, check the weather report, don't do anything
stupid, and steer clear of the seafood on the streets.